We might only be in the second week of December, however the 8th was when the holiday season truly commences for the Day of the Immaculate Conception of Mary. In cities such as Florence, the tree-lighting ceremony and various events always occur on this day which kicks-off the next few weeks of holiday cheer and Tuscan cities sparkle with festive cheer. We adore this holiday as four generations of our family celebrate all together in the Mugello valley, the vibe is exuberant and generous.
One of our favorite things to do is just wonder the historical towns of Florence and Siena to see the tiny streets lit up with Christmas lights. You can also expect to see many presepi or nativity scenes in and outside churches around the region, Italy has a long tradition on hand-crafting them and they are always a fun thing to visit.
On December 24th, families typically avoid eating meat but then go all out on the actual day of Christmas. The day after Christmas is the time to eat leftovers and sweets for the holiday of Santo Stefano. Typically the holidays last until January 6th for the epiphany and this is when kids can expect to see the ‘befana’ or good witch bringing candy or coal for naughty and nice children.
Naturally food is always central to any holiday in Italy and Christmas is a time to shine as all of the family gathers together to eat, and eat and then eat some more. In Tuscany, you will always find chicken liver pate or ‘crostini neri’ as a local appetizer, along with dishes like tortellini pasta in broth, an arrosto or mixed grilled meats. Near the seaside towns in Tuscany, expect to find more fish dishes like sauteed mussels or Cacciucco, a rich fish soup native to Livorno. In Monte Amiata, you will even find cooked snails or lumacche.
For dessert, Panettone and Pandoro sponge cakes are always the king and queen of the table, and the lovely and rich panforte with candied fruits always makes its presence known. Cantucci, biscotti from prato are always typically served with a glass of aged vin santo or sweet wine.
When it comes to decorations, most families have a tree and lights but it is a more modest affair than in the USA or abroad. The same goes with nativity scenes, which obviously depends on the family.
Like the rest of the world, Italy revels in celebrating the last day of the year with friends or family, often with dinner at home or at a nice restaurant, finishing with a fireworks celebration. At every meal, lentils are served as Italians believe that by eating them, it will bring good fortune and money in the new year. Also red underwear can be worn (more of a joke if anything) and some even partake in the tradition of throwing something away to symbolize a year about to end.
Just when you thought vacation was over, Italy goes ahead and surprises you with the Befana holiday on the day of the Epiphany, January 6th. On this day, children leave out stockings for a good witch called ‘Befana’ who you might see in cartoon form around town. Kids who are good will wake up to treats, while those who were naughty will be left coal (often made in candy form).
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Anyone visiting Florence for the first time imagines a stay right in the historic center, surrounded by museums, piazzas, and narrow cobblestone streets. It takes only a day, however, to realize that Florence is wonderful to explore yet challenging to inhabit. Between ZTL restrictions, scarce and expensive parking, constant noise, and high prices for even […]