Along The Pilgrim Path: Visiting Bagno Vignoni
Salus per aquam ‘health through water’ brings us to the latest of our features on interesting places in Tuscany. If there ever was a Tuscan town that bypassed the typical crowds and maintained a peaceful sort of existence in the beautiful UNESCO Val D’Orcia valley, it is Bagno Vignoni. Part of the frazione of San Quirico d’Orcia, it has attracted travelers of the more ‘pilgrim’ variety along the ‘Via Francigena’ route to Rome since Etruscan and Roman times, due to the popular hot springs that hail from the volcanic origins of the Monte Amiata nearby.
It remains a personal favorite spot for us, in both winter and summer because of the sheer natural beauty of the area and peaceful atmosphere. You can stroll through the enchanting cobblestone streets without having to push through tour groups. Plus, it is well worth a visit in conjunction with other adventures in the Val d’Orcia (Pienza, Montepulciano, Montalcino).
The iconic spot stems from the huge 16th century basin in the middle of the town dubbed “Square of sources”, with sulfurous water steaming from a central fountain. This town became so popular it even had a few famous guests, including Pope Pius II, Lorenzo the Magnificent, and Catherine of Siena. While it is no longer possible to swim here, there are several spa options around here at different price options. The water is good for a variety of ailments, our top pick is Piscina Val di Sole which is affordable if simple. Otherwise if you are looking for a luxurious solution, try and get a day pass at the Adler Spa, a five star hotel with different thermal pools and a Dead Sea salt grotto.
Also make sure to check out the Parco dei Mulini below the village, just follow the series of canals to the pools below (which are quite cold at that point). There are some decent walking paths (somewhat steep) and the Chapel of Saint Catherine. We also liked browsing through a local bookshop that also sells small gifts, Librorcia Bagno Vignoni.
You won’t find touristy restaurants here, only typical trattorias serving up local cuisine and some of the famous regional wine, Nobile di Montepulciano, and the Rosso Orcia. We also recommend sampling the sheep cheese from neighboring Pienza, along with a little local honey of course!
How to get there:
From Vicchio, it’s a two hour and twenty minute drive, and only an hour and a half from the city of Florence.
Where to eat:
We like the local menu at Hotel Le Terme, which is located adjacent to the terme with it’s own wellness spa under the hotel. Other restaurants include La Bottega Di Cacio and La Terrazza.
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